Victoire de Castellane arrived on the Home of Dior in 1999 to create a excessive jewellery division that was lacking from Dior’s steady of merchandise. It was a giant job to start out a completely new vocabulary for a revered French trend luxurious model. However the artist and jewellery designer rose to the event.
Reasonably than echoing what the large jewellery homes on Place Vendome have been doing with their formal-centric jewellery dripping in diamonds, rubies and emeralds, de Castellane shook up the business together with her singular imaginative and prescient of what gems ought to appear to be. She wished colour, whimsy, fantasy and surrealism. She wished butterflies, flowers, bugs, skulls, sea creatures, lariats and what have yous. She wished boldness and gestures of the surprising. She additionally wished to make use of stones that have been then largely ignored like citrine, tourmaline and beryl.
She has a penchant for mixing actuality with fantasy, for creating nice jewellery that resembles paste, for locating inspiration within the technicolor world of Japanese animation in addition to, after all the life and legacy of Christian Dior. Disney princesses and their arch rivals characteristic in her gem narratives, so do figures like her stylish grandmother Sylvia Hennesy and her finest good friend the American heiress Barbara Hutton and the way they in couture dressed and wore jewellery with a sure flourish.
It has been 20 years since de Castellane joined Dior. And to have fun this event is the launch of the e book: Dior Joaillerie: The Dictionary of Victoire de Castellane. It’s a vocabulary studying of the whole lot referring to de Castellane and Dior Joaillerie, that includes musings and illustrations by de Castellane and an introduction and textual content by the director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Olivier Gabet.
In alphabetical order are entries that chronicle the imaginative names of her collections (Belladone Island), the codes of Dior (New Look), adjectives she associates with gems (Iridescence, Treasure), architectural references (Trianon, Versailles), the various inspirational touchstones for her designs: (Fauna, Hollywood, Ribbon, Solar), and the gems she likes to work with (Opal, Paraiba, Sapphire). “Every of those phrases was just like the crystallization of 20 years of dreaming, creativeness, and tales. A phrase would spring forth from the record and Victoire would pluck it out of skinny air and make it her personal,” wrote Gabet within the e book’s introduction.
An instance of those phrase entries is Erotic: “Carrying jewels is erotic, however the jewels themselves aren’t,” in response to Victoire… “Individuals are inclined to neglect the seductive or erotic energy of a jewel, whereas for me, that continues to be very highly effective, as a lot for a person as for a girl, in reality.”
Or this — Fragrance: “I by no means put on fragrance,” specifies Victoire… “Carrying fragrance is like a further gesture, it’s nearly one step too far, and my final gesture within the morning is to decide on the necklace or bracelet I’m going to put on for the day… For me, a jewel is a fragrance like another.”
There are a number of pronouncements just like the above within the e book, in addition to ruminations on trend and elegance and the symbolism of flower and colours, and the significance of savoir faire.
De Castellane as soon as stated that work for her is like playtime, the place she will get to immerse herself in fantasy and marvel, after which reworking these wonderments into actual, valuable, glowing jewels.
Following the A-Z entries are lush images on largely black backgrounds of the best jewellery hits of de Castellane at Dior.
Under are a few of them.