The third season of Grasp of None opens with Lena Waithe’s Air Jordan 1s prominently displayed, and her footwear stays entrance and heart all through the narrative. Other than her huge sneaker assortment, the Emmy Award-winning actress, who performs the lesbian creator Denise within the hit Netflix sequence, sports activities Gucci slides and the much-ballyhooed Yeezy Foam Runners — dubbed “Yeezy Crocs” as a consequence of their uncanny resemblance to the ever-present rubber clog — all through the 5 episodes.
Denise and her companion, Alicia (Naomi Ackie) are the celebs of the present this go-around, which takes place in a bucolic nation dwelling in upstate New York. Although miles away from metropolis life, every character has her personal distinct, fastidiously curated model: Denise channels traditional hip-hop, whereas Alicia is extra eclectic and experimental — the garments are the right distinction to the ladies.
Right here, Grasp of None costume designer Kate Forbes discusses collaborating with Lena Waithe, sourcing LGBTQ+ designers, and the Yeezys.
CelebrityPie: Denise and Alicia have very completely different aesthetics. Was that intentional?
Kate Forbes: Denise has a traditional hip-hop model happening — she’s all about consolation, simplicity, and critical bling, however her look continues to be tremendous thought-about and thought by means of: the colours, the textures, the combos . . . there’s an consideration to element in her look that is actually refined however by no means ignored. Alicia has an eclectic, bohemian model — understanding her love of antiques and the way in contact she is along with her cultural heritage gave license to mix so many components from so many eras and sources. She is a personality who loves garments and expressing herself by means of how she clothes — she’s keen about discovering distinctive items and placing them collectively!
PS: How a lot did Lena and Naomi’s private model influence their characters’ respective seems?
KF: Lena has sturdy private model, and I liked how her hip-hop influences contrasted so strongly with Denise and Alicia’s antique-filled, characterful nation pad. I performed extra with colours, textures, and refined model decisions to construct her character’s development over the season. Naomi was completely open to my concepts and actually captivated with discovering an unique model for Alicia that embraced all her character’s traits and tradition; her sense of enjoyable, loyalty, and love of arts and antiques. It was additionally essential to construct in a few of her African heritage, as Naomi wears head wraps in her private life. We embraced that and labored rather a lot with wraps and turbans, each classic and in nice African prints.
PS: Lena’s socks and sandals look could be very apropos for COVID instances. Did pandemic dressing affect the wardrobe?
KF: Clearly it does have an effect on your day-to-day on set and in fittings, and given the sequence of lockdowns it restricted how we might store, however as far as Lena’s socks and slides go, it was actually simply a part of her homie look and a component that I actually loved ending her outfits with!
“Lena used her private wardrobe on events the place she felt it was proper for the outfit.”
PS: Which designers did you look to?
KF: Lena steered a number of youthful manufacturers that she was eager to provide publicity to, a lot of which cater to the LGBTQ+ group, like Stuzo, Pyer Moss, Melody Eshani, and Tomboyx. Nike and Gucci additionally supplied us with some product for Denise’s wardrobe. The remainder was an actual combine from excessive road and boutiques: Wax London, Reiss, Stussy, Dickies, and Carhartt. We used a whole lot of Zara menswear for [Denise’s] staples and repeated her seems a number of instances, too. For Naomi, I started with classic items — many from a rental firm in London referred to as Modern Wardrobe — and others picked up in boutiques and markets in London. Then I supplemented with some nice African-designed items from Ace Hackey and Samson Soboye, some excessive road necessities, fashionable print pajamas from Desmond & Dempsey, and a luxurious silk set from Liberty London for the ultimate episode.
PS: Do you could have a favourite look from the season?
KF: It needs to be Alicia’s “unhealthy bitch” look within the scene with Dr. Perkins — the Samson Soboye African print jumpsuit. I am unhappy that you do not get to see extra of it. It is tremendous comfy, easy, and mega-stylish suddenly. She felt like a nasty bitch sporting it and everybody who noticed it on her simply liked it!
PS: Had been there any items included from Lena or Naomi’s personal closets?
KF: Lena used her private wardrobe on events the place she felt it was proper for the outfit. The Yeezy trainers would not have been my first alternative, however she obtained them in there! Naomi’s sequin bodysuit used within the failed seduction scene was a chunk she owned — she was tremendous pleased to put on it as a result of she by no means had earlier than, and it was simply good for that second. Naomi truly saved most of her costumes after we wrapped. She had actually fallen in love with a whole lot of the items and did not need to say goodbye.
Maintain scrolling to see some standout stills from Grasp of None season 3, now streaming on Netflix.
This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.